New Orleans City Park’s latest post-Katrina enhancement is a 24-hour Morning Call coffee stand, located in the Old Casino building just a short distance from the Peristyle and playground. This new outpost of the 140-year-old business faithfully recreates the marble countertops, bare light bulbs, mirrors and mahogany-colored woodwork of the original and transplanted Metarie locations.
Early 2013 has been uniformly gray and drizzly, but a recent visit to the City Park Morning Call proved that cafe au lait and beignets can chase away dismal weather for less than $10. For the price of bad gas station coffee, Morning Call still turns out a chicory-heavy brew lightened with scalding milk poured from a funny, long-spouted pot, served in a sturdy ceramic mug and saucer. The milk still forms a faint skin atop the cup, just as it did back in 1870 when Morning Call catered to French Market vendors.
It’s nice to know that some tastes don’t change.